Wednesday, December 13, 2006
Purchasing a motorcycle.
So, you've decided that you want to buy a motorcycle. Which brand is best? Which color? Sportbike? Cruiser? Four-cylinder? V-twin? I’m jealous of you--there are a lot of great bikes to choose from.
Motorcycles have come a long way since they were invented in the late 1700's (I did mention that I'm not an authority on motorcycles, didn't I?). What I do know for sure is that today's bike-buying public demands "bang for the buck," and that includes both longevity and low maintenance. Would I recommend an Aprilia? Sure! A Harley-Davidson? You betcha! You can't go wrong with virtually any motorcycle available today, though I can't yet vouch for a few Korean brands as I don't personally know anyone who owns one.
Here are a few things to consider when buying a motorcycle:
1. Cost. There are a lot of great bikes available new for $5-10K. On the $5K side there are bikes as diverse as the sporty Kawasaki EX500 and the cruise-y Suzuki C50 (800cc) V-twin cruiser. On the $20K+ end there are a few Harleys, some high-end Ducatis and BMWs, and a few others. A more expensive bike, unlike a more expensive car, does not necessarily guarantee increased longevity. Expensive bikes are usually composed of more expensive components, which will probably need replacement at roughly the same interval as components on less-expensive bikes. Many Ducatis require timing belt checks at 6,000 mile intervals, while the valvetrain components on a relatively inexpensive Suzuki SV1000S don't need to be inspected for 15,000 miles. This is probably a good rule of thumb: More expensive bike = more expensive (and possibly more frequent) maintenance. Here's my best advice: Buy the bike you can comfortably afford that fits your skill level. Most dealers are willing to work on a price with you in the same way that car dealers do. Many manufacturers offer incentives such as zero percent financing and no downpayment. Don’t worry about resale value, especially if you’re buying a Harley-Davidson. The vast majority of bikes should not be thought of as investment property, so don't waste time trying to decide if a Ninja 650 will depreciate more than a 600 Katana.
2. Skill level. Have you ridden a motorcycle before? If not, I would recommend buying an inexpensive "starter" bike. Illinois statutes state that licensing tests must be done on a bike with an engine displacement greater than 150cc. I was told by a driver services inspector that my Bandit 400 was "really too large" for the test (although I passed). Manufacturers aren't really offering much between 150 and 500cc. Suzuki makes a 250cc bike which would be fine for commuting around town, but is lucky to hit 65mph with a good tailwind (in my experience). If you're going to go the Drivers Services route to licensing, I recommend buying the bike that you want, then borrowing a smaller bike for the licensing test.
Be realistic about the size and type of bike that you "need." Riding a 400cc bike for years, I knew that any bike would be a huge upgrade for me. I considered getting a Suzuki SV650S, but my wife knew that I really wanted an SV1000S, so that's what we bought. The SV1000S is not a sportbike, but does have enough power to get a rider into trouble. Ridden sensibly, though, it's a pussycat. The same could be said for virtually every new bike available. A Suzuki GSX1000R has 150+ rear-wheel horsepower, but can be ridden like a scooter around town with the right touch. Getting that "touch" takes experience. Hitting a bump mid-corner that causes you to grab the throttle and unleash that power can be disastrous and/or deadly.
Do you plan on taking a lot of long rides? A cruiser would be nice, especially if you plan on taking someone along. Do you prefer acceleration and handling to comfort? Buy a sportbike. Do you want to tour comfortably with a passenger but don’t like typical "cruiser" looks? Buy a BMW. There really are no rules for how you choose to ride your bike. Sportbikes can make good tourers, for example, with a backpack or a set of saddlebags. It depends on how much pain you can stand, really. A 430-mile day on the SV1000S more or less made my legs stop functioning properly until the next morning. Would I do it again? Name the time and place!
My best advice is to make a list of all the bikes you're interested in, then visit dealers for a "fit." Inform the salesperson of your skill level, and if he has even a small sense of responsibility (and wants to keep you as a repeat customer) he or she might recommend a bike that you'll fit perfectly. Don't be afraid to ask your biker friends for advice, if you don't mind them bending your ear for a few hours...
3. Serviceability. Modern bikes are engineered for reliability. In the interests of speed and handling, however, bikes tend to be comprised of lighter, more delicate components than your average car or truck. If you enjoy performing your own maintenance, you’ll love owning a bike. If you don’t want to perform your own maintenance, there are a lot of shops who’ll enjoy working on it for you (at labor rates that are comparable to those at an auto shop).
Bikes need the same general maintenance as cars: Oil and filter changes, air filter changes, brake pad replacement, and tire pressure checks. Some also need fuel filter changes. If your bike has a chain final drive, you’ll need to inspect, clean and lubricate it at intervals as specified in your owner’s manual. Chains and sprockets will eventually need to be replaced. Sticky tires on sportbikes might be worn to the limits within 3-4,000 miles; sport touring tires can last for 6-10,000 miles. Lubrication points are generally identified in the owner’s manual, as are fastener retorque intervals. Clutch fluid (if you have a hydraulic clutch) and brake fluid are replaced at specific intervals. Water-cooled engines need an eye kept on engine coolant (also replaced at specific intervals). None of these maintenance items are difficult for anyone with any mechanical experience, although tire changes require bead-breaking and balancing equipment ($$). You might save $40-$60 per tire by bringing your wheels to the shop for tire replacement. For that, all you need is a centerstand or a set of maintenance stands.
Valve clearance will need to be checked rather frequently, as compared to automotive engine valve clearance intervals. On the Bandit 400, this was done every 6,000 miles; on the SV1000S, it’s done every 14,500. You can do this yourself, but it’s best left to qualified mechanics if you have any hesitation about performing the steps.
I highly recommend that you purchase a set of service manuals soon after purchasing a bike, new or used. Do a web search for your particular bike; some enterprising individual may have posted a copy of the service manuals online. CD copies are relatively inexpensive, and can always be found on E-bay.
If you look at the purchase price of a new bike, the cost of new tires every 4-10,000 miles, the cost (and time) of regular servicing and cleaning, the fuel economy benefit, and a motorcycle’s general lack of utility, you might find it hard to justify the "economical" aspect of purchasing a bike. The fact is that most bikes probably won’t "save" you much money in the long run. Just remember that "economy" is only a part of the argument—and you’ll forget about that the first time you’re leaned over hard on an on-ramp.
4. Resale value. Forget about it, unless you're buying a Harley or a classic race bike. Bikes depreciate, and there's really no way to get around that. On a positive note, bikes are much less expensive than cars. If you're past the "bikes are only toys" mindset and realize that they are a valid form of daily transportation, the depreciation when you go to sell or trade your bike won't hurt so badly.
¶ 5:36 PM
Motorcycles have come a long way since they were invented in the late 1700's (I did mention that I'm not an authority on motorcycles, didn't I?). What I do know for sure is that today's bike-buying public demands "bang for the buck," and that includes both longevity and low maintenance. Would I recommend an Aprilia? Sure! A Harley-Davidson? You betcha! You can't go wrong with virtually any motorcycle available today, though I can't yet vouch for a few Korean brands as I don't personally know anyone who owns one.
Here are a few things to consider when buying a motorcycle:
1. Cost. There are a lot of great bikes available new for $5-10K. On the $5K side there are bikes as diverse as the sporty Kawasaki EX500 and the cruise-y Suzuki C50 (800cc) V-twin cruiser. On the $20K+ end there are a few Harleys, some high-end Ducatis and BMWs, and a few others. A more expensive bike, unlike a more expensive car, does not necessarily guarantee increased longevity. Expensive bikes are usually composed of more expensive components, which will probably need replacement at roughly the same interval as components on less-expensive bikes. Many Ducatis require timing belt checks at 6,000 mile intervals, while the valvetrain components on a relatively inexpensive Suzuki SV1000S don't need to be inspected for 15,000 miles. This is probably a good rule of thumb: More expensive bike = more expensive (and possibly more frequent) maintenance. Here's my best advice: Buy the bike you can comfortably afford that fits your skill level. Most dealers are willing to work on a price with you in the same way that car dealers do. Many manufacturers offer incentives such as zero percent financing and no downpayment. Don’t worry about resale value, especially if you’re buying a Harley-Davidson. The vast majority of bikes should not be thought of as investment property, so don't waste time trying to decide if a Ninja 650 will depreciate more than a 600 Katana.
2. Skill level. Have you ridden a motorcycle before? If not, I would recommend buying an inexpensive "starter" bike. Illinois statutes state that licensing tests must be done on a bike with an engine displacement greater than 150cc. I was told by a driver services inspector that my Bandit 400 was "really too large" for the test (although I passed). Manufacturers aren't really offering much between 150 and 500cc. Suzuki makes a 250cc bike which would be fine for commuting around town, but is lucky to hit 65mph with a good tailwind (in my experience). If you're going to go the Drivers Services route to licensing, I recommend buying the bike that you want, then borrowing a smaller bike for the licensing test.
Be realistic about the size and type of bike that you "need." Riding a 400cc bike for years, I knew that any bike would be a huge upgrade for me. I considered getting a Suzuki SV650S, but my wife knew that I really wanted an SV1000S, so that's what we bought. The SV1000S is not a sportbike, but does have enough power to get a rider into trouble. Ridden sensibly, though, it's a pussycat. The same could be said for virtually every new bike available. A Suzuki GSX1000R has 150+ rear-wheel horsepower, but can be ridden like a scooter around town with the right touch. Getting that "touch" takes experience. Hitting a bump mid-corner that causes you to grab the throttle and unleash that power can be disastrous and/or deadly.
Do you plan on taking a lot of long rides? A cruiser would be nice, especially if you plan on taking someone along. Do you prefer acceleration and handling to comfort? Buy a sportbike. Do you want to tour comfortably with a passenger but don’t like typical "cruiser" looks? Buy a BMW. There really are no rules for how you choose to ride your bike. Sportbikes can make good tourers, for example, with a backpack or a set of saddlebags. It depends on how much pain you can stand, really. A 430-mile day on the SV1000S more or less made my legs stop functioning properly until the next morning. Would I do it again? Name the time and place!
My best advice is to make a list of all the bikes you're interested in, then visit dealers for a "fit." Inform the salesperson of your skill level, and if he has even a small sense of responsibility (and wants to keep you as a repeat customer) he or she might recommend a bike that you'll fit perfectly. Don't be afraid to ask your biker friends for advice, if you don't mind them bending your ear for a few hours...
3. Serviceability. Modern bikes are engineered for reliability. In the interests of speed and handling, however, bikes tend to be comprised of lighter, more delicate components than your average car or truck. If you enjoy performing your own maintenance, you’ll love owning a bike. If you don’t want to perform your own maintenance, there are a lot of shops who’ll enjoy working on it for you (at labor rates that are comparable to those at an auto shop).
Bikes need the same general maintenance as cars: Oil and filter changes, air filter changes, brake pad replacement, and tire pressure checks. Some also need fuel filter changes. If your bike has a chain final drive, you’ll need to inspect, clean and lubricate it at intervals as specified in your owner’s manual. Chains and sprockets will eventually need to be replaced. Sticky tires on sportbikes might be worn to the limits within 3-4,000 miles; sport touring tires can last for 6-10,000 miles. Lubrication points are generally identified in the owner’s manual, as are fastener retorque intervals. Clutch fluid (if you have a hydraulic clutch) and brake fluid are replaced at specific intervals. Water-cooled engines need an eye kept on engine coolant (also replaced at specific intervals). None of these maintenance items are difficult for anyone with any mechanical experience, although tire changes require bead-breaking and balancing equipment ($$). You might save $40-$60 per tire by bringing your wheels to the shop for tire replacement. For that, all you need is a centerstand or a set of maintenance stands.
Valve clearance will need to be checked rather frequently, as compared to automotive engine valve clearance intervals. On the Bandit 400, this was done every 6,000 miles; on the SV1000S, it’s done every 14,500. You can do this yourself, but it’s best left to qualified mechanics if you have any hesitation about performing the steps.
I highly recommend that you purchase a set of service manuals soon after purchasing a bike, new or used. Do a web search for your particular bike; some enterprising individual may have posted a copy of the service manuals online. CD copies are relatively inexpensive, and can always be found on E-bay.
If you look at the purchase price of a new bike, the cost of new tires every 4-10,000 miles, the cost (and time) of regular servicing and cleaning, the fuel economy benefit, and a motorcycle’s general lack of utility, you might find it hard to justify the "economical" aspect of purchasing a bike. The fact is that most bikes probably won’t "save" you much money in the long run. Just remember that "economy" is only a part of the argument—and you’ll forget about that the first time you’re leaned over hard on an on-ramp.
4. Resale value. Forget about it, unless you're buying a Harley or a classic race bike. Bikes depreciate, and there's really no way to get around that. On a positive note, bikes are much less expensive than cars. If you're past the "bikes are only toys" mindset and realize that they are a valid form of daily transportation, the depreciation when you go to sell or trade your bike won't hurt so badly.
Lastly, ask your fellow bikers for advice. Invest in some bike magazines (I recommend Motorcyclist, Sport Rider, and the U.K.'s Bike), pick out a few bikes you want, then hit the dealerships. Happy hunting!
Ride safe!
¶ 5:36 PM
